So, today I am posting the first part on a small guide to show how I paint my Battle-Automatas. The process in itself is not very time-consuming, but as I have a fulltime job, I will need some days to complete it. Today I will begin with the metallic parts.
After a solid black basecoat, the first step is to apply a Leadbelcher base on all the areas you want to be metallic. As you can see, I also applied some Dark Flesh on the skulls, but I will paint them in a second moment.
I also applied the Leadbelcher to the reinforcing rods on its base. I marked with some yellow colour the place where the Castellax will be glued, so I can avoid covering these spots with the Agrellan Earth.
Then is the time for a good wash of Agrax Earthshade. When I am in the initial stages of a model, and I do not risk of ruining other areas that I have already painted, I prefer to use an airbrush to apply the all-over washes. It gives a more solid finish, dyeing evenly the underlying colour as if you were using Photoshop or any other images editor that implements the concept of level. This time, however, I preferred to use a brush, dragging it from the most raised areas to the deepest ones, to get a smooth transition.
I obviously did the same to the reinforcing rods on the base.
Then I carefully applied a thin glaze of Guilliman Blue in the recesses and on some of the flat surfaces, being careful not to touch the extremities or the raised areas, which will be highlighted in a second moment. You will notice that I did not glaze the ammo feed. This was intentional, as I do not think it is made from the same material of the Castellax. Moreover, I need to break the “monotony” of the back of the model. There is too much silver there, so I will need to differentiate between different tones. As for the barrels of the weapons, I will weather them with different effects.
As the reinforcing rods did not need this step (they are not made of the same material of a Battle-Automata, after all), I layered some Eshin Grey on the rubble.
Then I applied some Ogryn Flesh on the rivets and in the recesses of the joints. I chose a warm colour to add some shadow by contrasting with the cold Guilliman Blue from the previous step.
No, I did nothing to the base at this stage, for I needed to keep my Drybrush clean for the next step. Yes, I will drybrush Necron Compound on the most raised areas. I know that drybrushing is considered by most a “third-rated technique”, but I do not agree with this interpretation. Drybrushing is just like any other painting technique: a means to an end, a tool that you need to learn how and when to use to get effects that you cannot get with other techniques. I should write about the subject, in the near future. For now, however, let’s just show the last pictures of the first part of this article.